E-FLITE LR-1a Build/Review

[WJCJR1]

E-Flite LR-1a POGO BUILD/REVIEW
http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=46&pictureid=757http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=46&pictureid=758
http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=46&pictureid=759



The E-Flite LR-1a comes neatly and tightly packaged in the box. All Hardware is cleanly packaged. To prevent damage the longer control throw arms are shipped inside the POGO and will be removed during installation so no fear they're in there. When you pick this thing up at your LHS or at your doorstep from the brown truck you'll be amazed as to how small this box is. The manufacturers are getting very efficient at packaging and delivering these products.



What's in the Box
(1) E-Flite LR-1a POGO
(3) Bags of Hardware
(1) Accessory Decal Sheet
(1) Thorough E-Flite Instruction Manual



Upon opening the box you'll first notice the LACK of parts. The part count is terribly low, which is GOOD! E-Flite has packaged hinged mating parts together, NO you don't get away from having to glue hinges, the parts are stored in a preassembled fashion.



What's NOT in the Box
-Sport Setup-
(1) E-Flite Power 15 970Kv Brushless Motor [EFLM4015A]
(1) E-Flite 40A Pro ESC [EFLA1040]
(1) E-Flite 3200 mAH 30C 3S Battery[EFLB32003S30]



-Race Setup-
(1) E-Flite Power 25 1250Kv Brushless Motor [EFLM4025B]
(1) E-Flite 60A Pro ESC [EFLA1060]
(1) E-Flite 2500 mAH 30C 4S Battery [EFLB25004S30]



-Common to both Setups-
(1) TX
(1) RX AR6200 E-Flite recommends [SPMAR6200] ( I used the AR7000) [SPMAR7000]
(3) JR MN48 Mini Servos [JSP20040]
(1) 3 Inch Extension (I never used)



-General modelling tools and Adhesives-
Hobby knife, Phillips and Flat Blade Screwdrivers, Drill Bits (1/16, 5/64, 1/8, 5/32), 30 minute Epoxy w/mixing and application supplies, Ultra Thin CA, Medium CA, Threadlock, Fine tipped Marker, Pencil, Low-Tack painters tape, light machine oil, Needle Nose Pliers, Paper Towels, Ruler, Rubbing Alcohol, Straight Edge, Square, T-Pins, Open End or Box Wrench 10mm, Side Cutter, Pin Vise*, Tooth Picks, Velcro Hook and Loop Tape.
*Throughout the build I substitute a Dremel tool rather than using the Pin Vise. I find the Dremel delivers better holes, straighter, more correct in ovality and it's a lot easier. A WIN-WIN.



The Build
Build review will provide an overview and fill in the potential pitfall areas. The E-Flite assembly manual is very thorough with 35 pages of instruction and over 160 photos and diagrams. Our intent is not to repeat the manual but supplement with helpful hints and tips.



Wing Hinges
First step in building the LR-1a POGO is to CA the hinges for aileron to wing connections. Separate by pulling straight out the aileron from the aileron pocket. Remove the hinge from the aileron or wing. The photo is not very clear in the manual as to how to use the T-pins in the hinges. The T-Pins assist in assuring the hinge is inserted half way into each part, more or less it is a centering tool, in addition the T-Pins serve as a gapper to keep from recking the hinges from getting them too tight on the surfaces. Find approximate center of the hinge and stick a T-Pin about half way between the edge of the hinge and the slot in the hinge, the hinge is tough use a newspaper under the hinge and press the T-Pin through the hinge. Dremel the holes in the center of the slots for the CA to be delivered in through. I found inserting the hinge up to the T-Pin squarely into the aileron then fitting into the wing a good way to do it. Several pictures below show the aileron fitted into the wing with T-Pins inserted into the hinges. CA both sides let them dry, break them in after drying.
http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=46&pictureid=763 http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=46&pictureid=762

Join Wing Panels
Slide the aluminum tube into one of wing panels, sliding the aluminum tube into the opposing wing's pocket aligns the wings then they are pivoted and locked together. The interlocking tabs area very nice feature and automatically hold the correct alignment very nicely. Practice interlocking the wings a few times before beginning the Epoxy process.

BEFORE mixing epoxy to save on mess I ringed the covering at the centers of the wings where they are to be joined with painters tape. With the tape ringed around the edges when the wings are put together any excess epoxy squirts out onto the painters tape which can be easily taken off and thrown away, worked like a charm!



Mix up some 30 minute epoxy apply gently to both panels and slide them together. Lock the interlocking tabs, let it sit for a few minutes to ooze out excess then remove the painters tape before hard curing sets in. 30 minute epoxy is nice in that it soaks into the wood more, offers a great working time and has phenomenal strength.



You've completed the messiest part of the build, rest is down hill.



Aileron Servo
The POGO uses one aileron servo to control both surfaces via a torque rod setup. I've always questioned the long-term precision of such set-ups but that is what the POGO is engineered with and it works fine. A couple benefits of this setup include less weight from a reduction of the number of servos, wire extensions etc., ease of engineering a thinner wing and the drag reduction as the wing surface is VERY clean no push rods, horns, clevises or linkages disrupting airflow. So more speed and clean high speed at that.



Follow E-Flite's instructions and this can be completed in minutes. Use a hot knife, soldering iron or hobby knife to cut away the covering from the servo mounting plate. Use care when transcribing out the plate and servo mount holes keep everything as square as possible as this is the base for your aileron deflection, squareness is key to a properly centered servo. Drilling these 8 holes with the Dremel is an easy chore. Put a few drops of Ultra Thin CA into the drilled holes.



While the CA dries break out your RX and bind it to your TX, this will be used in centering the Aileron servo in the next step.



Mount your plate and servo to the wing. Plug in the servo into the aileron port on your receiver and plug the receiver into a LIPO and connect to your TX. Remember at this point the receiver is just loose not mounted on the POGO yet. Double check your servo trim is dead center on your TX, put the horn onto servo parallel with the wing, hook up your linkages to the aileron torque rods, mark and bend your push rods, attach your keepers to the push rods. Wing is done.



Elevator
Disassemble the parts of the elevator. Exact same assembly preparation like you did for the aileron hinges; stab the hinges with the T-pins and drill your CA input holes into the hinge slots. DO NOT GO FURTHER! SLOWLY follow the E-Flite instructions for joining the elevator halves with the joiner wire. This is not a hard task to perform but if rushed together this could really mess up your airplane's performance, take your time. Practice putting the parts elevator halves onto the joiner wire and setting it up to cure. I used a straight edge and a couple phonebooks to hold everything square. Prep the joiner wire as instructed in the manual, apply epoxy, assemble, then I placed the whole assembly wedged between the straight edge by the joiner wire and inbetween two phone books. The key here is to make certain the joiner wire is holding the elevator halves straight in alignment otherwise hinging and deflection will be altered from design.



While the elevator halves and joiner wire cures take the time now to measure the centerline of your horizontal stabilizer. Simply mark center with a felt tipped marker using a ruler and square. I skipped this step and although not much harder it is more difficult to do later on after the elevator is hinged on. This centerline will be helpful in aligning the elevator to the fuselage, so take your time mark it right.



Slide in your T-Pinned hinges into the stabilizer and when cured insert the hinges into the elevator halves and apply CA both sides of the hinges in the holes you drilled.



Rudder Hinges/Tail Wheel
Diassemble the preassembled parts and follow the instructions for mounting the tail wheel. The tail wheel is of very light construction and minute in size, my only real gripe about the construction of the POGO. I followed the instructions per the manual and although you must be careful, of course, a little bit of thumb and finger grease is needed when inserting the parts into the rudder for the tail wheel, so be careful but know this is a tough fit. Once more the Dremel makes all the holes you have to drill here a snap.



After you get the wheel fitted, glued and mounted drill all your holes for your CA hinges in the slots and T-pin your hinges. You will ONLY be doing the top 2 hinges at this time insert these top two hinges to the fin then slide the hinges into the slots on rudder. CA let dry then break in. Either insert the last hinge so it doesn't get lost into the rudder or set it aside.



Power System Installation
-Motor-
Simply attach either the Power 15 or Power25B's X-mount to the motor and attach to the POGO's fuselage. With the Power 15 there are extension standoffs that are required to make a proper fit.



-ESC-
Use Hook and Loop tape and install the ESC in the opening in the fuselage behind and below the motor. Purpose made cuts in the cowl make airflow maximum in this area. It's a tight fit for sure but fit it will.



Cowl Installation
Place the cowl over the motor and onto the fuselage. Before transferring holes onto the fuselage put on the motor the Spinner Back Plate. Using the Spinner Back Plate as a guide position the cowl on fuselage forward of aft to obtain a 5/64" gap between the front of the cowl and the Backing Plate. I marked my holes, removed the cowl and drilled otherwise you can drill the holes using the holes in the cowl as your guide. Be mindful to add some CA to the holes you drill to harden the wood in which the cowl screws bite into. If you leave the cowl on for the drilling process be careful not to get CA on the cowl when putting CA into the holes, she is a nice looking cowl. I assume just remove it for the whole process so less chance of marking her up.



Propeller and Spinner
-Propeller-
Install the spinner back plate if not already on after cowl installation, then slide the propeller onto the motor shaft and against the backing plate. Use the 10mm nut to attach the propeller. Take it easy on the threads, with a 10mm wrench much force can be generated, the aluminum threads (especially new threads) on the prop adapter gall easily. Sport Setup recommends a 10X10, Racing Setup either a 8X6 or 8X8.



-Spinner-
This ARF comes with a plastic spinner, although the manual shows an aluminum spacer being used during assembly. Obviously there is a cost to these accesories but adding an aluminum spinner to the deal in the ARF really makes for happy customers. An aluminum spinner is available [EFLSP200] and is readily available at many of your LHS outlets. Install the plastic spinner over the prop and attach the screws. Unfortunately as shown in the picture below my spinner was broken direct from factory, some sort of molding stress fracture I assume.

http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=46&pictureid=765

* Note! Due to the factory supplied spinner being faulty I have flown the maiden flight and several since without the spinner. To eliminate the flat faced abrupt air dam potentionally caused by the spinner back plate I also removed this as well.


PLEASE GO TO PART 2 of the E-Flite LR-1a Build/Review

[WJCJR1]

E-Flite LR-1a POGO BUILD/REVIEW
PART 2



Receiver and Battery Strap Install
I chose to not put the receiver in the location recommended by E-Flite. I used an AR7000 receiver and mounted it on the underside the fuselage directly ahead of where the aileron servo rests. I did this to open up the battery bay a little more, the satellite receiver was placed on the topside of the fuselage much like how the manual has the satellite mounted. When mounting the RX I used Velcro hook and loop tape. Two main things to be aware of when installing the master RX in this fashion is to stay clear of the servo horn movement and leave clearance for the LE wing hooks to get into the locking pockets on the fuselage.
http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=46&pictureid=760 http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=46&pictureid=761




Wing Installation
The wing mounting design is very sturdy and provides for a positive locked in position hook-up. With the Fuselage inverted simply slide the wing's LE locking hook into place then drop TE of wing onto the fuselage put on the wing bolts plate and fasten the two metal screws. I appreciate the fact the wing is held on with metal bolts the whole design has a very rigid locked together feel. Make certain you do not squish the servo wires when installing the wing.



Horizontal Stabilizer Installation
This section and the next section are I feel the most critical assembly operation to the POGO and the flight character thereof. Put the plane upright on your stand, shove a T-Pin through the rear of the stabilizer on the center line you drew earlier. The T-Pin WILL stay in the stabilizer until epoxying has occurred so don't take it out after initial fitment. Place the stabilizer onto the fuselage pushing the T-Pin into the fuselage lightly, get it to what looks dead on center in the rear and then tape the front down. Break out a tape measure and measure the ~45* angle from the wing's LE corner to the stabilizer's TE. The manual shows using the wing's TE to perform the measurement, after getting her squared up after a few minor movements I checked the measurement from the manual's suggested TE datum point and all was square. Measuring from the wing's LE corner is a lot easier, especially if you don't have a helper.



After all is squared up stand back a few feet and compare the horizontal parallel nature of the stabilizer to the wing. The manual has a decent diagram describing this measurement. Mine was off considerably and I had to do as the instructions stated and sand off the landing on the fuselage for the stabilizer to sit level with the wing. After having to do this sanding I had to go back and repeat the above dance to get the correct angle on the stabilizer so after making your measurements and getting the stabilizer square mark the front edge stabilizer and the interacting part of the fuselage. This area will be covered by the vertical fin so don't worry about making the mark. I would however double check if you do need to do any sanding that when you put your stabilizer back on it is square with a measurement.



Now that all is square and level reach under the plane and trace out with a fine felt tipped marker where the stabilizer meets the fuselage. This traced line will be used to remove covering for epoxy application. Remove the stabilizer, flip the plane over on your stand and cut off the covering, cut about 1/6th" INSIDE your marks. To cut off this covering I used a hot knife at first then found my soldering iron worked better, with the soldering iron or hot knife you are not really cutting the covering you are melting a cut into it. A regular hobby knife can be used but EXTRA care must be taken not to cut the wood this could dramatically weaken the wood.



After you remove the covering, take your time and refit the stabilizer make certain you are still lined up as before, perform your measurements, do this a couple times to make certain you can predictable put the stabilizer on the fuselage straight when you epoxy it. Mix your epoxy and gently brush epoxy onto the bare wood part of the stabilizer and fuselage. Fit the parts together as before sliding the T-Pin into the hole you made in the fuselage when first sticking in the T-Pin then tape the front of the stablizer matching the marks you made earlier. I also chose to further clamp the stabilizer in place with pieces of cardboard as buffer between the clamp and covering. Once more CHECK your measurements to make certain you are square and check horizontal nature of the stabilizer. Let cure before moving the plane.



Rudder and Fin Installation
FIRST STEP install the hinge into the rudder, Do Not Forget to install the hinge in the rudder before assembling onto fuselage.



Insert the hinge with T-Pin into the fuselage's hinge slot; at the same time align the fin into it's pocket. The front of the fin locates automatically then locate the rear of the fin by lining up the fin and fuselage in the rear. Once aligned trace with a felt tipped marker the outline of the fin base onto the horizontal stabilizer. Practice with a square how to bring the fin in to 90* as you'll need to do this when you epoxy the pats together in a few moments. Remove the fin and remove the outlined covering off of the stabilizer. I removed the covering with a hot soldering iron.



Have your square and low tack tape at hand. Apply gently epoxy to both fin and stabilizer, reassemble remembering not to forget about inserting the hinge from the rudder into the fuselage; don't concern yourself with CA'ing the hinge at this point. Using your square make certain the fin is square with the stabilizer and tape into place for safe holding while the epoxy cures, if it is not square just bring arund to square by leaning the fin into 90*. Let Cure.



CA the rudder to fuselage fin hinge on both sides.



Servo Installation
Following the instructions in the E-Flite manual prep and place your servos in their respective pockets. Use the square pockets in the fuselage as a guide when placing servos for marking the holes, mark the holes and remove and drill holes. As the manual states remmeber Ultan Thin CA in the holes, the CA goes a long way to protecting the holes from fatigue and rip out. After CA dries fasten them in and connect the wires to the RX.

Rudder and Elevator Connections
Take your time again with the tasks for mounting these connections. All is very clear and easy to follow in the manual but use care that the holes you drill from marking the elevator and rudder control horns are as straight as possible to match squarely the control horn backplate. Install the horns after drilling, make certain the clevises are screwed in all the way so some thread from the push rod comes through the female threads on the clevis. Hook up linkages and manually square up the surfaces. Earlier we put the prop on to get the proper back spacing on the cowl for safety purposes you may wish to take it off. Energize the airplane and center the servos with the surfaces squared up mark the control rods where they cross the instructed hole on the servo arm. Unhook the control surface linkages, pull the rods out of the airplane from the tail, bend the push rods at the markings. Unscrew the clevis from the rods, slide the rods back in through the guide/support tube. Doing one surface at a time may help reduce confusion as to whcih one goes where. The bending of the rods can take place in the fuselage but I decided to remove them for ease of operation. With the radio system still on screw the clevises back on the push rods, attach the clevises to the surface control horn, slide on the keepers and then attach the 90* bent pieces to their servos and attach the push rod retainers. Adjust the clevises to make surfaces square and tighten down locknuts.

Landing Gear Assembly and Install
Biggest thing to remember here the landing gear is NOT symmetrical. The flat face of the landing gear points forward, putting the landing gear on backwards will set the CG off and result in taxiing and takeoff issues. The manual states you need to drill the wheel pants, mine came pre-drilled I would suspect yours as well. Assemble per instruction and mount onto the airplane. One of my wheels hubs was damaged from factory and had an oblong hole in it almost like it was melted by something hot, it seemed to roll ok so I used it.

Center of Gravity
Set your CG, I set my exactly as the manual specified at 2.375"

Final Wrap-Up and Throw Settings
Set-up the throws per the manual dimensions and EXPO offerings. I chose after the initial few flights to remove EXPO from the ailerons and elevator and increase rudder EXPO to 50%. This was a personal flight feel, I suggest you follow E-FLite's recommendation. Finally do your pre-flight and ground check.

Power System Evaluation
Always a good practice to perform a power system analysis. Measuring your power system even on new equipment is a good habit to get into. First of all, an overwhelmingly high reading could be indicative of a rub somewhere (maybe against the cowl) or potentially a prop being an inaccurate choice for the motor/battery combo. On the other end if you are pulling no where near the motor's capacity you have potential to harness more from the motor.
Secondly setting a baseline measurement can help you identify further down the road if there may be an issue with your model. After documenting a healthy reading in the future you could rule out certain motor or battery related ailments if your readings are still true. Or you could just plainly verify yes all is good. Much like doing a compression check periodically on an internal combustion engine, recording these measurements can help you measure the amount of internal cylinder and valve wear.

The LR-1a POGO with the Power15, 3S, 10X10 (Sport Setup) tested at 35.43A, 394W @11.04V.

Build Time
6 to 8 hours depending on your ARF experience. This build took me 7 hours to complete.

REPORT CARD
GOOD:
-Super LOW parts count
-Near perfect fitup of all parts
-Good Assembly Manual with over 160 helpful photos and diagrams
-ROCK Solid Construction

BAD:
-Factory Cracked Spinner
-Factory blemish wheel hub rolls weird
-Plastic VS Aluminum Spinner
-Weak Tail Wheel

FLIGHT REPORT
Weather: low 80's,west wind @ 10-15 mph, partly cloudy.

MAIDEN
Unable to acquire the new NMPRA Power25 on initial release I used a Power15, 3S 3200mAH and a 10X10 Prop this was E-Flite's suggested Sport Setup for the maiden setup.


Takeoff requires more attention than the average model, torque induced yaw is pronounced at low speeds and especially at takeoff as you are gathering ground speed and the tailwheel lifts. As soon as the model's tail wheel leaves the ground the POGO will begin a left turn veer, be ready with the rudder. Careful, MEASURED use of a little up elevator to keep the tail pinned longer and right rudder to counteract yaw you will get pretty takeoffs. The POGO takes to flight at a very low airspeed as the wing-loading is tame, she is a light model.

The POGO on the sport setup is a little slow out of the hole but after a few seconds accelerates nicely and vertical performace, although not outstanding, is acceptable.

The POGO goes exactly where you point her and deviates little. The corner carving ability is incredible and at ~80mph, E-Flite's advertised speed of this sport setup, the wings carve the air in tight corners with an audible sound of the wing splitting the air apart. Due to the small rudder and small ailerons the flight character of this plane is very gentle. Rolls are quite slow with the sport setup on high factory rates rolling once every 2 seconds at top speed. Knife edges at speed are fun but due to the very small rudder slower knife edges are not as fun or impressive. Loops are nice and good sized, the POGO carries speed a LONG ways so even with the less potent sport setup pretty big one hundred foot tall loops are a cinch. The POGO has a sleek clean airframe and floats incredibly so landing approaches are somewhat long especially until you get the hang of flying her. Due to the lack of drag the space needed to land the POGO is better kept on the longer side, she effortlessly carries speed so be mindful and incorporate a longer approach into your landing cycle.

At the sport setup the POGO is a fun sporty plane, I do look forward to feeding my adrenaline addiction more with the Power25-B motor.

To gain a little more from the Power15 after several flights with the Power 15 motor, 3S and 10X10 I switched to a 4S battery and 10X7 prop. This finished off the sport setup nicely. I would personally recommend this setup over the 3S 10X10. This setup offers considerably more vertical and out of the hole performance. Theoretical top speed may be a couple mph less than the 3S and 10X10 but unless you have a HUGE airfield you WILL actually go faster with the 4S and 10X7 as the POGO sprints to top speed much faster and the ability to do HUGE vertical runs and Loops is pure FUN.

Report Card:

ROG: Good Rudder Experience Required, Torque induced yaw makes for a challenging airplane to takeoff.
Glide: LONG glide path, very gradual on the drop.
Rolls: Slow Rolls, at top speed 2 seconds per full roll.
Loops: Good sized medium loops on stock Sport Setup, Outstanding on higher power setup.
Speed: Sport Setup ~80mph, Race Setup advertised ~115mph. (actual update to come)
Landing: Other than a little bouncy liekly due to the short stout landing gear with no give landings are a breeze if you can slow her down. As mentioned above Glide is LONG as the POGO carries the speed a long ways.
Beginner: NO, this is a good intermediate and above airplane. Although the POGO handles GREAT, takeoff and excessive speed potential offer challenges above a beginner's safety level.

SUMMARY
Quality ARF with a build that is inviting to even a first time builder.

Flight character is superb with no sneak attacks, Only suprise I would note: takeoff touchiness. The POGO will not disappoint the intermediate and above pilot if you want a sleek, fast plane that flies EXTREMELY smoothly, cuts hairpin corners at incredible speed and looks and sounds awesome.

[WJCJR1]

Maiden Flight video. Upon takeoff the POGO needed no more than 3 clicks right and 2 clicks up to fly straight and level.

Excuse video quality, I was unable to get an experienced pilot to fly for me and my videographer was a little shakey. ALSO I have a young one who loves photography and inadvertantly changed some settings thus the small size. All has been fixed now but there is only one maiden so the latter videos are larger but not a maiden. For a larger video view click on VIMEO web address.

More videos to come SOON!
Wayne

http://vimeo.com/13372754

[ATIS]

Nice review, looking forward to the other videos!!

[WJCJR1]

Nice review, looking forward to the other videos!!

Thanks,

Second Flight video loading, this may take some time to load, hopefully have it will be up late tonight or early morning. More and better quality videos to come but speed is a little more clear of the Sport Setup in this video. Definitely can not wait for the Race Setup though.

Wayne

[WJCJR1]

For larger video click on Vimeo web address atop video.

Plenty more videos to come in near future, I plan to get an experienced pilot to fly for me so I can take the video and something better up.

Wayne

http://vimeo.com/13378349

[flyingmp]

Wayne, Nice review. The Pogo is a sweet airplane and flies well. Sounds like you had an issue or two out of the box. Mine came in perfect condition and I used all of the stock components. Take offs can get a little squirrelly, you just needto get used tot he rudder and a slow and smooth application of power. Now for some real fun get that Power-25 motor installed. :thumbsup:

[jrb]

Sounds like a race could take place!

[WJCJR1]

Power25-B Installed ready to go.

Race? Any time! That'd be fun to have at a Fun-Fly, a couple inflatable Pylons with some mad planes buzzing around.

Wayne

[albsurfer]

WJCJR1 (http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/member.php?u=3), A-1 review and build info. Videos were good, too. Can't wait to see the Power25-B setup when you get it.

[WJCJR1]

WJCJR1 (http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/member.php?u=3), A-1 review and build info. Videos were good, too. Can't wait to see the Power25-B setup when you get it.

Power25-B installed and ran today on the 8X6 prop, 4S. Performance is an upgrade from the Sport Power 15 setup whether 3S 10X10 or even 4S 10X7. Estimate 90ish mph, looking forward to the 8X8. I can't run the 8X8 at full capacity until my new batteries come in details here ---> http://www.horizonrcflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1612 Overall the vertical and speed performances so far with this motor are great. Next on the ticket to try is 3S 10X10, with the higher Kv this motor brings the POGO should have CRAZY thrust. E-Flite suggests the 10X10 prop as a 3S option, seems kinda big to me for this 1250Kv motor, I will Watt test to double check.

Wind today was sporadic and made the POGO interesting at times as this was the first time I have experienced her getting chucked around. All in all the POGO will fly a straight heading through the wind however in today's sporadic gusts to 18-22 mph she bucked good a couple times.

I think my camera is biting it or a setting is doofed as quality could be a whole lot better??? Not terrible but exceptional it is not. Nonetheless the performance of the Power25-B, 8X6, 4S is displayed in the video below and will keep your attention as a pilot no doubt. I did some fly-byes in the video where the tail was wagging in a pronounced manner, as FlyingMP had mentioned above, unfortunately I can not see that detail in the video. ~2:18-2:35 I performed a knife edge in one direction then returned with a KE in the opposite direction, she looks sweet in the air.

Wayne

For a Full sized video click on the link atop the video.
http://vimeo.com/13442085

Wayne

[flyingmp]

Wayne, Sounds like you are having fun with the Pogo. My set up is using the Power 25-B motor, Castle Ice 75 ESC, and a Turnigy 4S 2200mAh Lipo battery, and an APC 8x8 prop. I flew Saturday morinng at Tri-Valley field and the guys all wanted ot know what I had. They were impressed with its speed and flying qualities. I note that you also saw that little tail wag at high speed. My only real complaint with the model is the tail wheel. The wire is so soft it bends while taxiing on a paved runway. I am replacing it with a Dubro unit for small electrics. Should be a big improvement.

[WJCJR1]

Let us know how that DuBro Rear wheel goes. As I had also noted in the review as a thumbs down the weak tail wheel. I swear there must have been left-overs from the HZ Super Cub line :laughing: Ok Just kidding..sorta.

The tail wag deal is just something I think we have to live with. I've seen some people at my airfield spend A LOT of time and energy trying to alleviate this tendency from other planes with hardly an improvement and in some cases it worsened so they just returned the plane to stock. So I am going to leave it alone.

Wayne

[WJCJR1]

Flew the POGO tonight with the 10X10, 3S 3200 20C E-Flite Battery and was very impressed. I first ran a static Watt test and came up with WOT Static 58.16A, 626W @ 10.86V. These numbers are impressive power from this motor, YIKES actually! I do not have in flight numbers but as long as the motor pulls to specifications E-Flite is correct and this 1250Kv motor can handle the 10X10 prop on 3S battery as these numbers should be within specs. in the air. EXTENDED WOT would be at your own risk though as the burst current is 58.00A with only a continuous 50A rating.

Performance is outstanding with higher speed than the 8X6 on 4S and phenomenal out of sight vertical! It would not suprise me if on this setup the Pogo is at or very close to 100mph coming out of a shallow decent onto a flat-run. The motor definitely sounds different and is not spooling up the R's as it does with the 4S. Post-Flight after about 5:00 of flying the motor came down COLD and agaiun this includes some pretty hard hammering so she's not being over-run at all.

On my first flight tonight I however used a 4S 2150 20C Rhino battery with an 8X6 prop. She speeds up quicker with this prop than the 10X10 and 3S but I feel may be a little slower top end and definitely is inferior in vertical. I did get another video tonight of the POGO, although a little sun faded this video is better than the ones before. Check out the landing wheeew I almost pulled out and flew around again as that corn was getting awfully close. Also note on takeoff I am standing behind the POGO, with the POGO's takeoff sensitivity I for now have been standing behind her on takeoff to assist in rudder accuation and direction. She takes off nice as in the video but you DO need to be alive at the controls. Video will is loading and will be up tomorrow morning.

Wayne

[WJCJR1]

For full-size video click on link atop video.

E-Flite LR-1a POGO, Power25-1250Kv, 4S, 2150 Mah, 8x6APC
Wayne

http://vimeo.com/13471310

[flyingmp]

Let us know how that DuBro Rear wheel goes. As I had also noted in the review as a thumbs down the weak tail wheel. I swear there must have been left-overs from the HZ Super Cub line :laughing: Ok Just kidding..sorta.

The tail wag deal is just something I think we have to live with. I've seen some people at my airfield spend A LOT of time and energy trying to alleviate this tendency from other planes with hardly an improvement and in some cases it worsened so they just returned the plane to stock. So I am going to leave it alone.

Wayne

I will try and get a picture or two of the tailwheel posted this weekend. Jsut finished installing it last night.

As for the tail waggle I think it is inherent in the design of some airplanes. I believe the Corsair and Sabres did the same thing.

[jrb]

My F-16 waggles:

[WJCJR1]

Drop some more power into the PZ T-28 and it does the exact same thing. Wags all over.

Wayne

[flyingmp]

Here's a couple of photos of the new tail wheel on my Pogo. It is a Dubro #926 Micro Steerable Tail Wheel. Easy to install. Works well and doesn't seem to slow it down any.::very happy::