EFLITE L4 Grasshopper

[ATIS]

EFLITE L-4 GRASSHOPPER



BUILD AND REVIEW



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The EFlite L-4 comes very neatly and securely packaged in a surprisingly small box. The interlocking foam cross members keep everything in place during shipping so you shouldnt have any damage upon arrival.

Whats in the Box:

(1) L-4
(+) Misc hardware (pushrod and control surface horns)


Whats not in the Box:

Transmitter
2s 430 lipo
4 servo's (S60)
Rx
10 amp BL ESC
GWS 6x5 SF prop (I used a APC 6x5.5E prop)

The Build:


Wing:

The first step is installing the aileron servos...double check yours works before installing and attach the 6 inch servo extensions before running the servo wires through the wing. Place a piece of tape around the servo extension connectors to insure they dont come unplugged in the wing.

Fuse:

Install the landing gear and place a drop of medium CA in the four corners to lock it in place. Next install the rudder and elevator servo (without the arms). Note the small hole on the backside of the servo tray. This allows you to install the servos as it allows the wires to slide in without having to tweak the servo in the tray. Now secure them with screws. Install the pushrods from the tail forward and use the clips to secure them to the control horns.



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Install the motor along with BOTH the wooden "X" spacers. (Prop saver set up). I was unable to reverse the motor shaft on my EFlite 250 so I had to go with the prop saver configuration. Add the ESC and connect everything to the RX



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Binding:

I prefer to bind the RX to the TX before I attach the pushrods to the servo arms incase a servo is not centered it wont drive the control surface to the maximum deflection or strip itself out.

Once your done binding leave the TX on and just remove the Bind plug. Its now time to center everything and attach the pushrods to the servo arms using the included quick connects and then to the servos them self. Insure all control surfaces are flush and tighten the quick connect jam screws against the pushrods. The wings just slide on to the CF rod and are held against the fuse with pre-installed magnets!! Nice touch for quick disassembly...might be bad for my flying style but only time will tell.

Final Assembly:

Now install the cowling using the paper strip trick. Drill small pilot holes and install the four screws. I used a brown Sharpie to color the APC prop to look like wood. Its a quick and easy detail that adds to an impressive looking plane.



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Check your CG with the lipo installed.

Total build time: 1 hour for a semi experienced builder.


PREFLIGHT:

Double check your control surfaces, with my DX7 I set up flaperons by connecting each aileron servo to its own channel. Everyone is different so if your new go by the book here.

Report Card:


Good:

Forward CG comes out on rib
Quality and fast build
Nice details
Bad:

canopy /front window could have been designed to be removable for access to servos and RX later on if needed (Had a servo die during preflight and had to cut in)
No pilot
Designed for 2s 480mah lipo

FLIGHT REPORT:




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Weather Conditions:

Cloudy and overcast
10-15 mph winds
Maiden:

First off, it was a terrible day for flying and especially terrible for a maiden with such a low weight plane with sub 10oz per sq inch WL. But with that said I simply couldnt wait to see if the rain tomorrow was going to show up or not so I drug my neighbor (DCobra from RCG) out to take photos and maybe witness the destruction of this beautiful plane.

I used all the recommended parts except for the prop where I went with a APC 6x5.5E prop. ROG of the golf cart path was easy and took only 4 or 5 feet. For a tail dragger she tracked true and required no rudder corrections. Once in the air she acted tail heavy despite being in the middle of the recommended CG range. After 8-10 clicks of down trim I had her flying as level as I could get her in the gusty winds. 3 clicks left aileron and the wings were level till the gustys caught the wing tips. Surprisingly she is fairly fast on the 250 motor and 2s but when the winds gusted hard she would nearly stop in the air...to the extent that my first attempt to roll did nothing as she was standing still!! (wish I had video)

Loops are easy just go to WOT and pull through easy. I didnt try the flaps as the gusty wind added bursts of lift when headed into the wind so I figured I wouldnt need it to land.

Landing proved to be a little more difficult then expected. It was a carefully balance between increasing power to fight the wind and keeping the nose down to prevent ballooning. I landed in the tail grass and bent the left landing gear wire and the wheel came off. No worries as the wire is soft enough to bend it back with pliers.

Report Card:

HL: NA
Glide: NA (too windy)(2nd flight glide test...shallow long glide)
Rolls: Slow
Loops: Smooth
Inverted: Easy with little down elevator
Speed: ~25 mph
Landing: Average
Beginner: Not a first plane but a good second choice



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[ATIS]

Still photos are flight number 2, video is flight number 3 (used a 2s 730 lipo) as the weather took a turn for the worse....just my luck.



http://www.vimeo.com/7375681

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[Max Headspeed]

You may want to include the model's specs in your article other than that a vid would enhance an otherwise decent review of this good looking model.:thumbsup:

15mph wind? WOW! I would've tied a string to it so as not to loose it.:laughing:

Nice job.:clapping:

[ATIS]

I just couldnt wait to fly her anymore. Been looking at her for 4 days and the addiction over came my common sense. I wont fly her again in winds over 8 mph...she was a handful with ever gust. All the specs are in the announcement posts. WS is 38".

[WJCJR1]

With that wind I am sure you were happy to have ailerons huh!!!

Are flaperons hard to dial in ATIS, since the ailerons are away from the fuselage if they are not perfectly square I would assume they would cause rolling of the plane? Is this theory true or not?

She certainly looks nice. Even knowing she's a light one I like the scale looks and full 4 channel control.

I look forward to your video and some nicer flying days where you can do some scale flying.

Good job,
Wayne

[ATIS]

After 2 more flights today flaps are NOT needed...I had to dead stick the landing on flight number 2 (still photos) and she went across the field on her own...a soccer field...darn near hit the fence!!

Third flight (video) I bleed off more speed.

[WJCJR1]

Good video ATIS was that flying with just the magnetic hold-on feature? At the bottom of one of the loops she pulled some G's. Now there is a spar that slides into the wing the magnets just hold the spar in the wing?

The L4 is A LOT faster in that video than I expected it to be? Were you at WOT most of the flight or is there even more left for level flight airspeed?

Wayne

[ATIS]

2 spars and magnets hold on the wings along with the struts...use them or loose the wings

[tkrahlin]

I just picked one of these up at the LHS today.

Any hints, tips or suggestions?

Anything you would have done differently?

Thanks!
Tim

[ATIS]

Its an easy build but check all your servos (even after mounting them) as I had one that once installed died (elevator) and I had to cut the canopy off to get back in to replace it. should have done one last minute check before CA'ing the canopy on. Also, use some CA on the velcro to hold it completely down to the balsa...mine is trying to pull out when ever I remove the lipo.

EFlite S60's or S75's work. Go with a TP 2s 740 lipo... if you use the 2s 470 you need to add 1/2oz lead to the nose. Install the lead under the motor mount before installing the cowling. I installed the ESC behind the motor mount and stuffed the RX passed the eelvator and rudder servo going forward. Also I used two 6 inch servo extensions for the ailerons so I can pull the wings off if needed.

[tkrahlin]

Its an easy build but check all your servos (even after mounting them) as I had one that once installed died (elevator) and I had to cut the canopy off to get back in to replace it. should have done one last minute check before CA'ing the canopy on. Also, use some CA on the velcro to hold it completely down to the balsa...mine is trying to pull out when ever I remove the lipo.

EFlite S60's or S75's work. Go with a TP 2s 740 lipo... if you use the 2s 470 you need to add 1/2oz lead to the nose. Install the lead under the motor mount before installing the cowling. I installed the ESC behind the motor mount and stuffed the RX passed the eelvator and rudder servo going forward. Also I used two 6 inch servo extensions for the ailerons so I can pull the wings off if needed.

So, you're saying it's aft heavy and I should keep everything as far forward as possible? I like nose heavy anyway.

I went ahead and ordered the flightPack. Figured it's a nice radio.
SPMAR6300F AR6300 DSM2 Nanolite
6-Channel Receiver FlightPack

And I ordered two of these right away.
THP7302SJPL2 730mAh 2S 7.4V 20C

And the APC 6x5.5E prop you said you used.
.

[ATIS]

yep, she needs 1/2oz of lead (I used 1/4oz with the 2s 430 lipo so I could switch lipos). With the 2s 730 you shouldnt need any weight but you will want to keep everything up front.

[tkrahlin]

ATIS,

What battery, radio and ESC did you use?

I'm having more trouble with this one Grasshopper than I've had with four planes.

I'm using:

Castle Creations Thunderbird 18-amp ESC
AR6300 DSM2 Nanolite 6-Channel Receiver
Eflite 2s x 7.4v x 430mah x 20c

I can bind the Rx all day long, but it won't rebind once I unplug and plug the battery back in.

[ATIS]

I used:

AR6110 RX
EFlite 10 amp ESC
TP 2s 470 lipo
DX7

How are you binding her? Remeber that once bond you pull the bind plug out, then disconnect the lipo then turn the TX off. Then TX on, then connect the lipo. You should be bond without issue after that.

[ATIS]

AR6300 binding directing from HH website:



　
Binding
The AR6300 receiver must be bound to the transmitter before it will operate. Binding is the process of teaching the receiver the specific code of the transmitter so it will only connect to that specific transmitter.
1. To bind an AR6300 to a DSM2 transmitter, with the power off, short the bind pins together with tweezers, hemostat or small needle-nose pliers.
2. Power on the receiver. If the receiver is installed in an electric aircraft, turn on the speed controller to power up the receiver. If the receiver is going to be powered by a separate battery, plug the battery into any unused port. The amber light will blink, indicating the AR6300 is in bind mode.
3. Position the transmitter’s control sticks and switches in the desired failsafe positions (normally low throttle and all other controls at neutral).
4. Follow the procedures of your specific transmitter to enter Bind Mode; the system will connect within a few seconds. Once connected, the LED on the receiver will go solid indicating the system is connected

[tkrahlin]

This is a good example of poor planning and inexperience on my part.

I had been eyeballing the Grasshopper on the forums and web sites, so when I saw it on the shelf at the LHS, I bought it.

I try to support my LHS, but they’re not making it easy. I opened the box in the store, pulled out the manual, and went through the completion guide with the clerk;

The only thing they had in stock was the Park-250.

They didn’t have the part numbers of the Y-connectors and Extension in stock, so the guy substituted other connectors. Also, they had only one APC 6x5.5E prop left in the bin.

They didn’t have any batteries close to what the model needed, so I ordered two Thunderpower 730mah batteries. I also ordered the AR6300 Flightpack (RX and servos) and a SF prop. This was a Sunday and they said my order would be in Wednesday or Thursday.

$320.00 out the door.

When I got home, I went online and there were no Thunderpower 730mah batteries in stock at Horizon. I know my LHS orders from Horizon, so I knew they had taken my money for backordered items. To cover myself, I placed an order online for two Eflite batteries, a Thunderbird 18-amp ESC, and an APC prop.

My Horizon order was on my porch Wednesday.

the Flightpack ONLY made it to the LHS on Thursday. Everything else is still on backorder (my money is sitting in the register at the LHS).

More troubles: The Ar6300 and servos use JST connectors. Not only didn’t the LHS clerk tell me this, he substituted the Y-connector and Extension with Ultra Lightweight ends. I don’t think it’s too much to ask that the people at the LHS know these things.

So, then I needed some adapters – Not only doesn’t the LHS have any adapters, they have a very limited amount of JST cables. I was able to construct an Y-Cable from three JST to bare wire cables. It turns out the LHS did have a JST to JST extension - I used one and cut up another to make an adapter for the ESC.

Over three days, I managed to make up all the cables and wrestle with the AR6300 binding problem. I have other radios and ESCs around here:

The Thunderbird ESC I’m using in the Grasshopper will light up other radios, but nothing will light up the AR6300 everytime.

I tried an Eflite 18-amp ESC from the Gunfighter, but the AR6300 behaves the same way so I’m sure it has nothing to do with the ESC.

I even spliced in an EC3 connector and tried a 3-cell LiPo, but the radio still does the same thing.

I thought maybe a small xBEC spliced in might help, but I peeled back some of the shrink-wrap on the AR6300 and metered the back of the JST connector. Whichever battery or ESC I use, I always get 5+ VDC at the pins… I EVEN GET 5+ VDC WHEN THE BIND LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON.

The AR6300 will complete the bind process perfectly, but will not re-light when swapping in a new battery. However, once lit, it will stay bound forever. I left my DX5e and the plane powered up for 1.5 hours with the motor, four servos attached, and a Common Sense RC meter plugged into the balancing plug. Every few minutes I’d move everything and watched as the battery discharged.

The frustration was driving me crazy. The German half of me wants to keep plugging away and engineer a solution while the Italian half wants to chuck the whole freaking thing against the wall and get something else.

To keep some semblance of sanity, I went ahead with the build just so I could realize some progress. The downside is that means the servos with the JST connectors are bolted in place -- I’m pretty much married to a radio with the same connectors now.

It’s not going to be a fun plane at the park what with having to plug-and-unplug batteries. However, when it does light, it stays bound. I’ve even been driving the fuse around the house.

Up until now, I’ve tried to maintain an economy of scale philosophy with this hobby, i.e., building planes that use the same batteries and accessories. Had I known, asked or been advised on the use of an AR6110 or similar radio with ‘regular’ connectors, this would have been a much more pleasant build.

It would cost me 50-bucks to try another AR6300 or 5-bucks and 3-weeks to send it back to Horizon, but I don’t think I want to sink anymore money into hardware with JST connectors.

For now, I’m going to finish the plane, and fly it as is.

Live and Learn :(

[WJCJR1]

I would guess Tim you are using a DX5e which binds fine to that AR6300. However a DX6 will not bind to that AR6300 so if that's what you are using this is an issue.

Note: The AR6300 receiver is not compatible with the Spektrum DX6 parkflyer transmitter.



Wayne

[tkrahlin]

I would guess Tim you are using a DX5e which binds fine to that AR6300. However a DX6 will not bind to that AR6300 so if that's what you are using this is an issue.

Note: The AR6300 receiver is not compatible with the Spektrum DX6 parkflyer transmitter.

Wayne

nah, I'm using the DX5e.

[ATIS]

I thought that with the DX5 to bind it you had to do it ever time? battery for RX first then hold the trainer switch and turn TX on...then bind and fly...or is that only with the BNF micros? I only use my DX5 for them so not sure on the AR6300....

Tim sounds like your LHS is like my old one... lacking in knowledge and soon to be out of business. GBI knows their stuff so all my business goes there.

[tkrahlin]

I thought that with the DX5 to bind it you had to do it ever time? battery for RX first then hold the trainer switch and turn TX on...then bind and fly...or is that only with the BNF micros? I only use my DX5 for them so not sure on the AR6300....

Tim sounds like your LHS is like my old one... lacking in knowledge and soon to be out of business. GBI knows their stuff so all my business goes there.

The DX5e binds once… although from time-to-time, I rebind my planes just to be safe.

The Grasshopper is finished. It’s about 76-degress here today, the winds are calm, and the sun will be setting soon. Got no reason not to maiden her today ---- I’m just waiting for the battery to top off.

My LHS used to have a very knowledgeable young man who is a RC flyer himself. He had been with the store for a long time and would give me as much advice and customer service as time allowed. When times got tough, the owner let him go. I miss him and so does the store.

[tkrahlin]

Btw, she's lighting up more often today. Sometimes on the first battery plug-in.

[ATIS]

Tim the sad part was the LHS that was here in my town only had the owner working there... in 6 months in the hobby I knew more.

Did you the maiden in??

[tkrahlin]

Did you get the maiden in??

Yes. That thing is squirrelly on the ground, but I managed to get her up in the air.

Where did you decide on your CG mark? 1-9/16” to 1-15/16” is a pretty wide range. I set it at the rib and still added some weight to the nose.

When it finally lifts off, it’s kind of floaty as if it were pulling a banner? Wish someone had been available to shoot some video. I can’t believe it would still be aft heavy.

Once it’s moving it was flying okay and I greased a couple of nice landings. However, on the last takeoff it floated and was hard to control – I couldn’t clear a young sapling and landed it gently in the upper branches.

The prop saver ‘saved’ the prop right into the grass. I had used a marker to make the prop brown… brown just like the autumn leaves in the grass. Spent no less than 20-minutes looking for and couldn’t find it.

[ATIS]

Floaty!! She should be as she weighs nothing!! LOL

The ground squirrelly is common with tail draggers and too much/too heavy a hand on the rudder. I set my CG at just slightly behind the rib (so close to the 1 9/16th mark). Also she doesnt need a lot of elevator throw. I redcued mine a little and added EXPO to calm her down.

[tkrahlin]

Well, my least favorite build has turned into one of my favorite flyers.

I scored a couple of the GWS 6x5 SF props and a Castle Creations 10-amp ESC. To get the CG forward, I added ½ ounce of weight to each of the Elfite 430 LiPos.

After sitting through three days of foul weather blowing up the East Coast, Saturday was dead still, but still overcast. I had the Grasshopper in the street out front driving around and lifting the tail up here-and-there. My wingman / neighbor kid was there and finally said, “I think you’ve run out of reasons not to fly her.” So, we threw the gear in the car and headed for the school parking lot.

The Grasshopper turned out to be a real hoot to fly and I quickly burned through the two 420 LiPos. By the second battery, I felt comfortable enough to pull a couple of big loops and some barrel rolls.

I greased nearly every landing. I had a couple of bounces from trying to land her before she was ready, but otherwise, if you just let her fly to the ground, she makes it easy for you. Man, she looks so scale coming in that I started flying short circuits just so I bring her in again. And, with enough runway, I could continue to roll out on the mains until I slowed and used up elevator to push the tail down. Very, very cool looking. As a matter of fact, when taxiing, if you don’t keep tail wheel planted, you’ll find her up on the mains at a relatively low speed.

The only problem I had was on one take off the prop had slipped off the hub. Held on with only the prop saver she fluttered around nearly out of control. I managed to horse her until I could drop her in the grass and just bent the wire landing gear.

I have a couple of Thunder Power 730mAh LiPos coming this week so I’m already checking out the weekend weather.

[ATIS]

Tim,

Happy to hear you enjoyed her!! She is a great park flyer and really does look great in the air!!

the LG is easy to bend back...did you use the metal spacer that came with the motor to hold the prop stable on the motor?

[tkrahlin]

Tim,

...did you use the metal spacer that came with the motor to hold the prop stable on the motor?

Can you show me what you mean?

If you mean those little prop adapter things – yes and no.

The first time out I had an APC 6x5.5 prop and used the adapter to reduce the ID of the prop then set and rubber o-ring. However, the prop still moved around too much and I hit a sapling and threw the prop into the grass. I had ‘painted’ it brown so it blended right in with all the fall colors :mad:

The GWS SF props have what looks like a six-sided socket (that would fit a nut or bolt head). Yesterday I just pressed it on the motor shaft and set the rubber o-ring.

I've since dabbed a very small drop of 5-minute epoxy on it, pressed it on to the shaft and set the rubber o-ring.

Thanks,
Tim

[ATIS]

The Eflite 250 motor comes with a very small metal washer that has a lip around the hole on one side...thats used to adapt APC props. GWS props are designed for their gearboxes which is why they have the "nut" imprint in the hub.

[tkrahlin]

The Eflite 250 motor comes with a very small metal washer that has a lip around the hole on one side...thats used to adapt APC props. GWS props are designed for their gearboxes which is why they have the "nut" imprint in the hub.

Yeah – then we’re talking about the same thing.

I have a prop reamer and I'd thought about reaming out the GWS to the ID of the APCs so I could use the adapter. However, except for that one incident, pressing on the GWS and setting the o-ring worked. Now, I have a spot of epoxy there also.

The Grasshopper video on Horizon shows the collet / spinner so somehow they reversed the motor shaft. I don’t know how they did it. If you compare the PDF instructions, (you find online) with the ‘newer’ instructions in the box, the newer instructions have the shaft reversal section omitted. That sucker ain't moving!!

While we’re on the subject, where can I find a good reliable source that shows motor equivalents, i.e., Park-250 = Acme Motor #xxx.

[ATIS]

I couldnt get my shaft reversed either...and I like the looks without the spinner. My concern with the epoxy is that it wont let the prop saver do its job if you have a prop/ground strike!!

No idea... I compare motors based on the following:

1) Motor weight
2) Watts
3) KV
4) Max amps
5) Number of cells (can it handle 2s and 3s?)
6) physical size...28mm or 36

[WJCJR1]

Aside from the prop issue and the RX issue ealry on I am very happy you are enjoying the L4 Tim.

To you is it as fast and nimble as in ATIS's the video? I was suprised as heck when I saw how well and the commanding manner at which it flew.

Wayne

[tkrahlin]

Aside from the prop issue and the RX issue ealry on I am very happy you are enjoying the L4 Tim.

To you is it as fast and nimble as in ATIS's the video? I was suprised as heck when I saw how well and the commanding manner at which it flew.

Wayne

Yes - nimble is a good way of putting it. She responds very well.

I only had a couple of 430 batteries and I had to add 1/2-oz of lead to each one to bring the CG in. I just got my two 730 Thunder Power batteries this evening and they're exactly a 1/2-oz heavier, so I'll have more battery without the dead weight.

[WJCJR1]

More performance less dead weight:thumbsup:

Wayne

[rcers]

How are the aileron servos installed?

[ATIS]

There are pockets in the wings... I set mine up on seperate channels and made them flaperons...but you wont need the flaps.

[tkrahlin]

The Grasshopper is a blast to fly (in the right weather conditions). However, anything but a soft landing easily bends the landing gear wire. A couple of weeks ago, I had her out on a windy day and, after bending it back in place a couple of time, it snapped off.

NO ONE has the landing gear in stock. In fact, many of the parts for our models are BACK ORDERED. I have the landing gear and windshield on backorder (Horizon says March of 2010).

Okay, I know there aren’t going to be many good days to fly over the winter – let alone a 9-ounce model, but this is the kind of stuff that makes people crazy.

I’ll bend my own gear wire to hold me over, but there are an awful lot of back order tags on HH’s web site. I’m forced to order whatever I can find from other sites. When I do, if it’s close, I buy other things that HH has in stock just to bring my order up to the free shipping minimum.